TRAVEL TALES : Oh, Makati, oh!

Makati skyline at noon.

AFTER FOUR days, the Indian ladies needed to have the genuine Indian meal. I brought them to Bollywood, a desi restaurant within Ayala Center in Makati City.

Desi food at Bollywood Restaurant in Greenbelt 3.

Greenbelt 3.

Yes, Makati, the bustling financial hub of the Philippines. This is that fiercely independent city whose Central Business District is aspired to by some cities but whose politics lead others to dismiss it as “Republic of Makati”. Its towering buildings loom above Ayala Avenue, where over a million Manileños do their business every day: trading fast, talking fast, walking smart, dressing smart, dining, wining, entertaining, getting entertained, getting recognized, recognizing others.

I let Bembem and Neha roam the pedestrian sky bridges connecting the malls of Glorietta and Greenbelt shopping centers. The malls contain the greatest concentration of shopping and entertainment destinations in the Philippines, from SM and Rustan’s Department Stores to Prada and TGIF. Also notable is the lush Greenbelt Park under the sky bridges: it is a verdant break from the concrete jungles of the city. Next to it is the ultra-chic Ayala Museum, recently renovated and housing the famed Dioramas of Philippine History and works by Fernando Amorsolo, the country's first National Artist for painting.

Sky bridge at Greenbelt.

Greenbelt Park.

Ayala Museum.

Glorietta crowd.

Towards the evening, I left the ladies behind to attend a meeting with members of the Visual Merchandising Association of the Philippines. In case they got lost in the heavy pedestrian traffic of the malls, either of the two of them could always call me on the mobile phone.

Or both of them could simply sit on those fashionable benches until the crowd disappears in the wee hours of the morning . . . and then I could find them!

Officers and some members of the Visual Merchandising Association of the Philippines.

Greenbelt at night.

Glorietta at night.

Makati skyline at dusk.

TRAVEL TALES : Down south in Manila

Driving along South Luzon Expressway towards the south

ESCAPING THE heat of metropolis, we drove in the morning towards the southern cities of Metro Manila. Once notoriously billed as home of the maximum security National Bilibid Prison, the south is now the vibrant alternative to the urban chaos of the metropolis. Swanky residential communities, two of the best planned commercial centers in the country, and the biggest country club in Southeast Asia dot the gentle rolling hills, all veiled by the placid breezes of neighboring Manila Bay and Laguna Lake.

At the epicenter of these neighborhoods is Alabang, the glamorous, boldly stylish trailblazer of the lot. Much of its allure comes from Alabang Town Center, which groups five shopping zones around a central open-air plaza. This breezy establishment houses high-street shops, nightspots, outdoor cafés, and the world-class Rustan’s Department Store.

Alabang Town Center

An added treat is the parade of people: its pavilions and restaurants are filled with alarmingly good-looking Filipinos! I chanced upon my high school batch mate Nina Saldaña, who was with her peppy daughter Reb. She gave me a hard time for not advising her and the rest of the batch of my presence in town, but I promised to see them the next time I come home.

Next to the Town Center is the Ayala Alabang Village, a sprawling residential community. Opened in 1981, this hilly village continues to attract style-conscious Manileños and expatriates. To see why, enter through the strict security gates and drive through the tree-lined, multi-lane Acacia and Madrigal Avenues, along whose lengths stand some of the prettiest houses in the metropolis.

This is where home is. It felt so good to be back there this morning.

Acacia Avenue, just outside our house

My erstwhile bedroom, still intact!

TRAVEL TALES : Walking by the Baywalk in Manila

Calesa passing by Plaza Rajah Sulayman in front of Manila Baywalk.

THE DAY ended with a calesa ride along Roxas Boulevard and a midnight stroll down Manila Baywalk, the seaside promenade on the boulevard buzzing with nocturnal fun, frolic, and food.

Launched a few years ago, Manila Baywalk is an initiative by the Manila city government to capitalize on the scenic boulevard as a venue for social and cultural activities. The two-kilometer-long area used to be an unlit hangout of prostitutes, petty criminals, and brave young lovers kissing in the shadows and stench of Manila Bay. The hard-edged low life has given way to rock and pop bands, mime performers, caricaturists, cotton-candy sellers, flower stands, food stalls, open cafés and restaurants . . . and throngs of Manileños of all ages eager to see and be seen at night.

Mime performer at Manila Baywalk.

One of numerous live bands performing every night.

We sat down to listen to a band of four curvaceous Filipinas who greeted us in Hindi with an impressive “namaste”. They looked very pretty in their skimpy red skirts, and they harmonized very well on English pop songs I have not heard before. One singer seemed eternally confused with her dance steps, but it was delightful to see her confused on stage.

As we continued our walk towards the hotel, I observed how the young and the old sat together, shared food, posed for pictures, sang along, laughed along—even at midnight! I realized how strong family ties continue to exist in this highly urbanized city. It was a refreshing thought. Manila Baywalk is proof of moral leadership in the Philippines; along with it are endless possibilities for meaningful community lives.

Frolic and friendship at the Baywalk.

The view of Manila Baywalk from CCP Complex.

TRAVEL TALES : The Philippines under the bridge

The handicrafts market under the Quezon Bridge in Quiapo, Manila.

THE SCRAWNY pedicab driver must have lost ten more kilos of his weight driving the three of us on narrow alleys from Divisoria to Quiapo. He asked for sixty pesos for the journey; we gave him a hundred for his tenacity and bravery. For Bembem and Neha, the pedicab ride was an adventurous experience worth the extra fare.

The pedicab that took us bravely from Quiapo to Divisoria.

“Capiz!” yelped Neha as we dismounted the pedicab. There, under the Quiapo Bridge, stood shops full of capiz ware from chandeliers and wall décor to adornments and dining accessories. But there is much more. The hard-edged area—urbanites gorgeously call it “Ille de Tulle”after “ilalim ng tulay (under the bridge)”—is a permanent market for handicrafts nationwide. It is a virtual tourist map of the Philippines. Some of the stuff is cheaper here than in Divisoria. While bargaining is imperative, tourists would find enough ethnic and “wow” value in the merchandise that they would settle easily for the price tags!

Bembem and Neha ended up with shopping bags full of capiz and other stuff. Soon, their Indian homes will become repositories of Philippine craftsmanship!

Handicrafts extravaganza.

TRAVEL TALES : Divine Divisoria

Tabora Street in Divisoria.

SUMMER FIESTA season is definitely here. You can tell by the forms, colors, and textures of crafts sold along Tabora Street in Divisoria. Carnival masks, fantasy headdresses, Mardi Gras costumes, Mayflower arches, bunting flags and strings, silk flowers, feather boas, cane baskets, palm fans, sinamay fabrics—all that is needed to execute a festival event are here on wild display!

Entrance to Chinatown, just outside Divisoria.

Inside the jeepney taking us to Tabora Street.

The narrow pedestrian street is the undisputed source of accessorial materials for gifting and event management in the metropolis. Ethnic craft makers, mainly from the central and southern parts of Luzon Island, trade their wares wholesale. Carts and more carts of merchandise hog every square meter of the street and scream for attention. Noise levels are high; vendors and consumers are relentless. The trading business is generally brisk. To the uninitiated, the business is madness.

The area comes alive at least two months before an anticipated season. The best time, of course, is Christmas. By October, glitter and gold are inexorable. Tabora Street becomes a fabulous Yuletide show by itself.

Waiting for the party.

Wall of papier-mâché masks.

Cashing in on the beauty pageant season.

Right now, it is all about the festive month of May: the Flores de Mayo festival, the Santacruzan parade . . . and local beauty contests. At a costume shop, a gay talent scout was haggling on a garish Ifugao (northern Philippine tribe) costume for his candidate to the Miss Pasay City pageant.

“This is too expensive!” he sighed while trying on the enormous woven headdress.

“What you pay for is the drama of the costume,” the shopkeeper replied. “See, the headdress is so bongga (dramatic) on you! Buy the full attire and I’ll give your alaga (candidate) a free nose ring.”

“Yeah, but you're forgetting that we don’t have big budgets for these things.”

“Well, then I have something perfect for you. Here, take this.” He handed the talent scout a cheap alternative.

It was a tattered jute sack. Hilarious!

TRAVEL TALES : Riding the Pasig River in Manila

Leaving Makati City behind.

“TODAY, YOU will experience the Crawford Market of the Philippines,” I announced to Bembem and Neha in the hotel lobby. We would be visiting Divisoria, the grande dame of wholesale markets in the Philippines. I wanted the two Indian ladies to experience the other side of retailing in Manila, and see for themselves why Filipino visual merchandisers love this place with all its craft materials and decorative props.

To get there, I made them experience the newly-launched Pasig River Ferry Service, an initiative by the national government to provide a viable public transportation alternative. The MRT (Mass Railway Transit) took us to the Guadalupe ferry station, which is presently the farthest end of the five-station route (five more stations are being planned for opening this year).

Mad rush at the MRT headed for Guadalupe Station.

Guadalupe Station of the Pasig River Ferry Service.

If my aim for riding the river were to introduce to the Indians the dilapidated side of Metro Manila, then I would be successful. At the start of the trip, we beheld a truly unsightly and polluted side of the metropolis! The stench of the river permeated the enclosed, air-conditioned ferry. Surprisingly, the Makati City side of the river was the worst sight: painted names of electoral candidates shrieked loudly from the stony banks (local elections are coming up), and all sorts of plant and plastic life floated on grimy waters. At some point, three children were diving into and swimming in the river . . . a few meters away from the names of the political candidates, as if they were condoning this ghastly sight! It was hideous.

Vote from the boat.

What happens if the wind blows hard and the clothesline shakes?

Makati City Hall above and its wannabe occupants below.

The Mandaluyong City side looked so much better: street lamps lined the banks, and the decrepit factory buildings and residential houses actually gave an appealing, bucolic character. A bright surprise was the orderly Gawad Kalinga Village where houses are splashed in happy crayon colors and dotted with leafy palms. I wonder, though, how those living on these banks can survive the river stench!

Gawad Kalinga Village.

Farther down, the vista turned much more picturesque and comforting. This is the side of the Pasig River that I have never seen in all my years of living in the metropolis. The Mabini Shrine stood with quiet dignity. Several blocks away, the presidential palace and stately Malacañang gardens evoked the black-and-white charm of 1950s Tagalog movies. I immediately thought of the hundreds of years of life-altering history that these grounds contained. The boat stewards directed me to cease from taking photographs of the palace for security reasons.

MacArthur Bridge.

Post Office Building.

Quaipo and Santa Cruz, approaching the Escolta Station.

As the river entered the mouth of Manila Bay, Intramuros waved its old-world charms: the newly renovated Plaza Maestranza was an unexpected but welcome sight. Sitting on those banks in the olden days must have given an idyllic view of this river! Then came the neoclassical buildings of prewar Manila! We had indeed reached downtown Manila. Up close, Jones and MacArthur Bridges—those proud icons of the days when Manila overtook other Asian capitals in the race for postwar modernism—were never this good-looking before!

We finally reached our destination—the Escolta Street station—in a trip that took forty minutes from Guadalupe. Stifling noontime humidity welcomed us to Manila’s Chinatown. Divisoria would be minutes away, and a jeepney would take us there.

The Pasig River ride was a trip that brought out the best and worst of thoughts and memories.

TRAVEL TALES : Family surprise in Manila

Half of the world's wackiest Filipino family.

ALL OF them were waiting in the hotel lobby for me. Meeting five of my siblings and their families tonight was totally unplanned, but the surprise was pleasant and delicious. We created noise, unmindful of where we were, screeching in delight, exchanging jokes, chattering preposterously, laughing out loud. It was a riot, but how often do you get to backslap your siblings when you live overseas?

We dined in some Arabic restaurant along Mabini Street. I herded the group to my hotel room, where we continued our clatter and playful repartees. We all agreed that the next date would be Sunday lunch at Voltaire’s house. But not before they got from me their dainty Indian presents . . . including Allan’s Kohlapuri chappals.

As expected, he was pleased with those sandals.

The family circle, with Allan and the fabulous chappals.

TRAVEL TALES : If walls could talk in Manila

The medieval walls of Intramuros.

DUSKTIME INTRAMUROS and its ancient walls have all the old-world trimmings of a picture postcard. The orange hues of sunset cast dramatic shadows on the medieval adobe walls and deepen the wooden textures on the façade of its bahay na bato buildings. A galloping horse-drawn calesa echoes the tones of the cobble-stoned street. Rising above the two-storey houses are the domes and spires of the grand Manila Cathedral, the seat of the city's Catholic Archdiocese.

This is the Old City, and it lent a charming backdrop for the pictures that Bembem and Neha took along the narrow General Luna Street. The first stop was the Silahis Arts & Artifacts store that houses gazillion ethnic products. Neha only had one thing in mind: the capiz shells she discovered at Manila F.A.M.E. earlier today! Regrettably, most of the Silahis merchandise comes from mountainous northern Philippines, so the shells would have to wait for us elsewhere.

Silahis Arts & Artifacts.

Courtyard at Casa Manila.

We entered a few more bahay na bato houses with their quaint courtyards, staircases, gardens, water wells, and more adobe walls. I showed them Patio Victoria, the gardens where my brother Voltaire married Hazel exactly a year ago. At the picturesque, slightly austere San Agustin Church, mass service was ongoing so the photography had to cease briefly. It brought back memories: the last time I attended mass in this church—inscribed in UNESCO's World Heritage List and the oldest surviving in the city—was during a colleague’s wedding back in the early 1990s, when I marched the aisle as a secondary sponsor.

San Agustin Church.

The Manila Hotel.

Riding a cab back to the hotel, we stopped by the historic Manila Hotel, the oldest luxury hotel in the Philippines. “Capiz!” exclaimed Neha as she saw the chandeliers made of a million capiz shells. I wondered what she would do if she saw the colossal capiz chandeliers at the lobby of the Philippine International Convention Center. I hope they are still there, though.

TRAVEL TALES : Jeepney ride in Manila

The iconic, flamboyant “King of the Road”.

THE AFTERNOON was fading fast. We had a few more hours to spare after visiting Manila F.A.M.E. I decided to bring Bembem and Neha to Intramuros, where the city of Manila all began.

I let them savor their first-ever jeepney ride, which we took from Hyatt Hotel to Intramuros. They yelped happily inside the jeepney. “Take a picture of us,” Bembem asked the man seated in front of us. The man just glared back, perhaps seeing her action as rude. The woman next to him scolded him in Tagalog. “Kunan mo na sila at nakakahiya naman (Take their picture; it’s embarrassing not to do so).” The man did not budge, his Ray-Ban sunglasses shielding whatever look he had in his eyes.

To save ourselves from further discomfort, I took the picture and wondered whatever happened to the man’s sense of Filipino hospitality. I wanted to slap the man’s face for being cold, but I realized that the woman’s reprimand was good enough.

I sensed a pattern here. Last night at the Mall of Asia, Neha commented that I seemed to be the only one smiling so broadly. Taken aback, I realized that she was right. Filipinos generally reciprocate such smiling behavior; at the mall, only the security guards and the sales crews had happy, beaming faces.

Has the climate become too hot for the urban Manileño to beam and smile?

TRAVEL TALES : Manila F.A.M.E. 2007

One of the booths at the Christmas Village.

“SMALL” WAS the first thing I thought of when we entered the Manila F.A.M.E. International 2007 pavilion containing the Christmas exhibition. In 1998, the last time I visited Manila F.A.M.E., the pavilion was compact and busy. Today, aisles were wide and booths were few. I learned later that several exhibitors backed out this year for financial and logistical reasons.

Now on its 23rd year, the Manila Furnishings and Accessories Manufacturers Exhibition remains Southeast Asia's largest trade show on houseware, home furnishings, holiday décor, and fashion accessories. Held twice annually, the show is a marvelous showcase of the transformation of indigenous materials into contemporary, innovative product design by exporters and designers from the Philippines.

At the Christmas pavilion, a huge covered booth at the entrance displayed the best of this year’s décor and accessories. Everywhere else, the export products were dazzling. We were particularly impressed with the handcrafted angels and crèche figures. Hopefully, I can close a deal with these vendors so India can see Philippine-made materials at our window displays this coming Christmas.

But not everything is handcrafted. Some exporters have started producing fiberglass and resin materials to meet mass production demands. This is regretful as the products lose their unique sense of craftsmanship. Regretfully, we can expect this concession to happen in greater volumes as China gains momentum as a global export centre for inexpensive mass-produced consumer products.

Bembem and Neha in front of the Christmas Village pavilion.

We hopped over to the fabulous fashion accessories pavilion, but moved on quickly as we had no business with this category. At the home furnishings pavilion, Bembem and Neha waxed ecstatic over discovering the avant-garde use of such indigenous materials as sinamay and capiz shells. I sensed a love affair blossoming between capiz shells and these two Indian ladies.

Admiring a tribal hand loom demonstration at the Home Furnishings pavilion.

Most of the furniture was designed to encourage dialogue between furniture users. A rocking chair became a dual swing for two. A chaise longue was converted into a double settee. Reimon Gutierrez, a designer I have always admired, had amongst the most engaging pieces. One of his items was a novel translation of the rattan peacock chair: the traditional single seat became a grand two-seater without digressing from the basic form. When Miss Spain was crowned Miss Universe in Manila in 1974, she sat on a peacock chair. With Mr. Gutierrez’s new chair, even the beauty contest runners-up can sit with the winner!

Preparing papier-mâché masks for the Higantes festival.

At the main lobby of the exhibition.